Hidden Dangers: Cancer-Causing Preservatives in Everyday Cosmetics.

You diligently scan the ingredient lists on your food, but what about the products you apply to your skin every day? Lurking within your favorite lotions, shampoos, and makeup could be a host of preservatives, some of which have been linked to an increased risk of cancer. While these ingredients are used to extend shelf life and prevent microbial growth, their potential impact on our long-term health is a growing concern.

Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives (FRPs): A Pervasive Threat

Formaldehyde is a well-known human carcinogen, recognized by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) and the U.S. National Toxicology Program. While it can be added directly to products, it's more often released over time by a group of preservatives known as formaldehyde-releasers (FRPs). These chemicals are prevalent in a wide array of personal care items, including shampoos, liquid baby soaps, lotions, and makeup. Their purpose is to prevent the growth of bacteria and mold in water-based products.

The insidious nature of FRPs lies in their slow, continuous release of formaldehyde, meaning even low levels can become a concern with repeated, daily exposure. Studies have shown that longer storage times and higher temperatures can increase the amount of formaldehyde released, potentially amplifying health risks. Exposure can occur through skin absorption, inhalation of off-gassed formaldehyde, or ingestion.

A recent study highlighted that over half of Black and Latina women in Los Angeles who participated were found to be regularly using personal care products containing formaldehyde or FRPs. This is particularly concerning as previous research indicated higher exposure to formaldehyde in nail and hair products among these demographics.

Identifying Formaldehyde-Releasers on Labels:

These preservatives often hide behind complex chemical names, making them difficult for the average consumer to spot. Look out for:

Quaternium-15
DMDM hydantoin
Imidazolidinyl urea
Diazolidinyl urea
Polyoxymethylene urea
Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate
2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (Bronopol)
Glyoxal

Health Concerns Beyond Cancer:

Besides its carcinogenic properties, formaldehyde is a known skin sensitizer and allergen, capable of causing contact dermatitis and irritation even at low concentrations. Inhalation can irritate the eyes, nose, and throat.

Regulatory Landscape:

The European Union banned formaldehyde as a cosmetic ingredient in 2009 and requires warning labels on products containing FRPs above a certain concentration. In the U.S., regulations are less stringent, though some states like California and Maryland have begun to regulate or ban formaldehyde in cosmetics. However, there is no federal ban, and the FDA's oversight has been criticized as limited.

Parabens: Estrogen Mimics in Your Products

Parabens are another widely used group of preservatives found in an estimated 70-90% of cosmetics, including moisturizers, sunscreens, shampoos, and makeup. They are effective at preventing the growth of bacteria and mold. However, their chemical structure allows them to mimic estrogen in the body, classifying them as endocrine disruptors.

This estrogen-mimicking activity is a primary concern, as elevated estrogen levels are linked to an increased risk of breast cancer. Studies have shown that parabens can penetrate the skin and have been detected in human breast tumors. While a direct causal link to breast cancer in humans from cosmetic use is still debated, research suggests parabens can increase breast cell growth, reduce programmed cell death (a natural process to eliminate damaged cells), and potentially contribute to metastasis in cell-based studies.

Identifying Parabens on Labels:

Look for ingredients ending in "-paraben," such as:

Methylparaben
Ethylparaben
Propylparaben
Butylparaben
Isopropylparaben
Isobutylparaben

Other Health Concerns with Parabens:

Skin Cancer: Methylparaben, when applied to the skin, can lead to UV-induced skin damage and disrupt cell growth, especially with daily application.
Reproductive Toxicity: Some parabens, like propyl and butylparabens, have been shown to reduce sperm production and testosterone levels in animal studies. Maternal exposure has also been linked to developmental issues in the reproductive organs of offspring.
Allergic Reactions: Parabens can trigger skin irritation and allergic reactions, particularly on sensitive or damaged skin.

Butylated Compounds: BHA and BHT

Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) are synthetic antioxidants used as preservatives in lip products, makeup, sunscreen, and creams to extend shelf life and prevent oils and fats from becoming rancid.

Cancer Concerns:

The National Toxicology Program classifies BHA as "reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen" based on animal studies where dietary exposure led to tumors. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) also notes limited evidence of carcinogenicity for BHA. California's Proposition 65 requires warning labels for products containing BHA that are used on the lips. While BHT is not classified as a human carcinogen, some studies have linked it to liver and lung tumors in animals and it can act as a tumor promoter in certain situations.

Identifying BHA and BHT on Labels:

Look for:

BHA (Butylated hydroxyanisole)
BHT (Butylated hydroxytoluene)

Other Health Concerns with BHA and BHT:

Endocrine Disruption: The European Commission on Endocrine Disruption considers BHA a human endocrine disruptor.
Organ System Toxicity: BHA is classified as a high human health priority by Environment Canada. Animal studies have linked BHT to liver, kidney, and thyroid problems, as well as lung function issues.
Skin Irritation: Both BHA and BHT can cause allergic reactions on the skin. BHT is also considered a human respiratory irritant.

Nitrosamines: Unintentional Carcinogenic Contaminants

Nitrosamines are a class of compounds that are not typically added directly to cosmetics but can form when certain ingredients, such as diethanolamine (DEA) or triethanolamine (TEA), react with nitrosating agents (like nitrites used as preservatives) during manufacturing or storage. These impurities are a concern because many nitrosamines are potent carcinogens. The UK's Department for Business, Enterprise and Regulatory Reform has characterized nitrosamines as toxic in more animal species than any other category of chemical carcinogen.

Nitrosamines like N-nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) are classified as category 1B carcinogens (meaning they are presumed to have carcinogenic potential for humans). They have been linked to cancers of the stomach, liver, and esophagus in animal studies and can cause DNA damage. NDELA can be absorbed through the skin and accumulate in organs like the liver and bladder.

Identifying Potential for Nitrosamine Contamination:

Since nitrosamines are impurities, they won't be listed on ingredient labels. However, you can avoid products containing ingredients that are prone to forming them, such as:

Diethanolamine (DEA)
Triethanolamine (TEA)
Ingredients with "amine" in the name (though not all amines will lead to harmful nitrosamines).
Certain formaldehyde-releasing preservatives like Bronopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol) if mixed with amines.

Regulatory Action on Nitrosamines:

European cosmetic regulations prohibit cosmetic products containing certain nitrosamines like NDELA and set strict limits (e.g., 50 μg/kg) for their presence in cosmetic ingredients.

What Can Consumers Do?

Navigating the complex world of cosmetic ingredients can be daunting, but knowledge is power.

Read Labels Carefully: Become familiar with the names of concerning preservatives. Don't be swayed by "natural" or "organic" claims without scrutinizing the full ingredient list.
Simplify Your Routine: Using fewer products can reduce your overall exposure.
Choose Products from Companies Committed to Safety: Some brands are more transparent and proactive about avoiding harmful chemicals. Look for certifications or clear statements about their formulation standards.
Use Online Databases and Resources: Websites like the Environmental Working Group's (EWG) Skin Deep® database and the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics provide information on product ingredients and safety ratings.
Be Wary of "Fragrance": The term "fragrance" or "parfum" can be a loophole for companies to hide numerous chemicals, including some linked to health concerns, without disclosing them.
Don't Use Expired Cosmetics: Preservatives can break down over time, potentially increasing the concentration of harmful substances like formaldehyde from FRPs. Storing products in direct sunlight can also accelerate this process.
Advocate for Stricter Regulations: Support organizations working to improve cosmetic safety standards and demand greater transparency from manufacturers.

While preservatives play a role in product safety by preventing contamination, the use of those linked to serious health risks like cancer warrants careful consideration. By becoming informed consumers and making conscious choices, we can better protect ourselves from the hidden dangers that may be present in our everyday cosmetic products.

Reference: