Deep in the rugged, sun-scorched heart of southern Madagascar lies a landscape that looks as if it were carved from the memories of a forgotten world. This is the Isalo Massif—a Jurassic wonderland of eroded sandstone domes, deep canyons slashing through the earth, and "ruiniform" mountains that mimic the skylines of crumbling cities. For centuries, the wind has howled through these stone corridors, and the silence has been broken only by the call of the Benson’s rock thrush or the distant lowing of Zebu cattle herded by the semi-nomadic Bara people.
But hidden within this geological fortress, far from the coastline and shielded by miles of treacherous terrain, sleeps a secret that has recently upended our understanding of history. It is a ghost city of stone, a complex of precise, rock-cut architecture that belongs to no known Malagasy tradition. It is called Teniky.
For over a century, it was a riddle wrapped in rumors of shipwrecked sailors and lost tribes. But today, a groundbreaking revelation has cast a light on its shadowed niches: Teniky may well be the last resting place of a desperate exodus—a necropolis built by Zoroastrian refugees who fled ancient Persia to find sanctuary at the edge of the world.
This is the story of that mystery.
Part I: The Jurassic Fortress of Isalo
To understand the enigma of Teniky, one must first understand the alien world that hides it. Isalo National Park is not merely a setting; it is a character in this historical drama. Known as the "Colorado of Madagascar," it is a place of stark, dramatic contrasts. The land here rises from the grassy plains like a fortress of burnt orange and ochre, a massif of sandstone deposited millions of years ago when dinosaurs roamed the supercontinent of Gondwana.
Travelers who venture here today are often struck by the "ruiniform" nature of the rocks. Erosion has sculpted the sandstone into shapes that eerily resemble man-made structures: turreted castles, crouching lions, and, most famously, the "Queen of Isalo," a natural rock formation that looks regal and imposing against the skyline.
But Isalo is a land of deception. what looks like a barren desert from afar hides lush, green oases within its deep canyons. Rivers like the Sahanafo slice through the rock, creating micro-climates where pandanus trees, feathery ferns, and the endemic Dypsis palms thrive. It is here, in these hidden valleys, that life clings with tenacious beauty. The iconic Ring-tailed Lemur (Lemur catta) navigates the cliff faces with acrobatic ease, while the elusive Verreaux’s Sifaka ("the dancing lemur") bounds across the canyon floors.
It is a landscape that demands survival skills. For the Bara people, the dominant ethnic group of this region, Isalo is sacred ground. They are a fiercely independent culture of cattle herders who view their zebu not just as livestock, but as a symbol of wealth and status. For centuries, the Bara have used the natural caves of Isalo as tombs for their ancestors, weighing the bodies down with stones in crevices high up the cliff walls. To the Bara, the mountains are the domain of the spirits.
Yet, even the Bara elders, with their rich oral traditions and deep knowledge of the land, have long regarded the site of Teniky with a sense of separation. They knew of it, certainly—they call it Tenika—but the structures there were not of their making. The walls of cut stone, the precise geometric niches carved into the sheer cliffs, the terraced slopes… these did not speak of the Bara ancestors. They spoke of Vahiny—strangers.
Part II: The Whisper of the Walls
The site of Teniky is located roughly 200 kilometers inland from the nearest coast, a formidable distance in a time before roads. It sits in a remote cirque, an amphitheater-shaped valley carved by the Sahanafo River.
For decades, the few French naturalists and explorers who stumbled upon the site were baffled. In the 1940s, Alfred and Guillaume Grandidier, giants of Malagasy exploration, visited the site. They saw the "Grande Grotte" (Big Cave), a massive rock shelter partially walled off by neatly stacked sandstone blocks. They saw the "Petit Grotte" (Little Cave) with its carved stone pillars and benches.
The prevailing theory for most of the 20th century was romantic, if somewhat illogical: The Portuguese Hypothesis.
In the early 16th century, Portuguese ships had begun to ply the waters of the Indian Ocean, establishing the first European contact with Madagascar. The theory went that a group of shipwrecked sailors, stranded on the inhospitable coast, had marched inland in a desperate search for food, water, or a high vantage point to signal for help. Finding the oasis of Teniky, they supposedly built these stone structures as a temporary shelter, a "Camp of the Portugese."
This theory held sway for decades. It appeared in guidebooks and was repeated by local guides. It had the flavor of a Robinson Crusoe adventure. But it had holes. Why would starving sailors trek 200 kilometers inland through hostile territory? Why would they spend their precious energy carving elaborate niches into solid rock—niches that served no apparent defensive or habitational purpose? And crucially, why did the architecture look nothing like 16th-century Portuguese masonry?
The walls of Teniky were not the rough hovels of castaways. They were the work of master masons following a specific cultural blueprint.
Part III: The 2024 Breakthrough
The mystery remained dormant until very recently. In 2024, a team of international researchers led by Guido Schreurs, a geologist from the University of Bern, published a study that shattered the Portuguese myth and replaced it with something far more profound.
Using high-resolution satellite imagery, Schreurs and his team realized that what visitors had seen at Teniky was just the tip of the iceberg. The site was not just a few caves; it was a sprawling complex covering nearly 8 square kilometers. The satellite eyes revealed a vast network of man-made terraces, stone basins, quarries, and straight, dry-stone walls that stretched across the landscape like the lines of a blueprint.
But the smoking gun was in the niches.
Scattered across the cliff faces were dozens of rock-cut niches. Some were rectangular, some circular. Many had recessed rims, suggesting they were once sealed with wooden or stone slabs. They were too small to be living quarters, too numerous to be mere storage.
When the team excavated the ground near these structures, they found charcoal. Radiocarbon dating yielded a shock: the charcoal dated back to the 10th to 12th centuries CE.
This single fact obliterated the Portuguese theory. The Portuguese did not arrive in the Indian Ocean until Vasco da Gama rounded the Cape of Good Hope in 1498—three centuries after Teniky was built.
If not the Portuguese, then who? The builders were clearly connected to the wider world; excavations unearthed shards of Chinese celadon and Southeast Asian stoneware dating to the 11th and 12th centuries. This proved that whoever lived in this remote canyon was plugged into the vibrant arteries of the Indian Ocean trade network, a "Maritime Silk Road" that moved goods from the Song Dynasty of China to the Swahili Coast of Africa.
But the pottery was just the debris of daily life. The identity of the builders lay in the architecture itself. The researchers looked for parallels. They looked at the Swahili ruins of Kilwa and Lamu; they looked at the Hindu temples of Indonesia; they looked at the Islamic architecture of the Arabian Peninsula. Nothing matched.
Then, they looked further north, to the jagged mountains of Fars, Iran.
There, thousands of kilometers away, they found the twin of Teniky. In the necropolises of Siraf and other ancient Persian sites, they found the exact same rock-cut niches. They found the same benches, the same "piscine" basins, the same geometric precision.
These were not houses for the living. They were Ossuaries.
Part IV: The Fire and the Silence
To understand why a group of Persians would build a city of the dead in the middle of Madagascar, we must delve into one of the world’s oldest religions: Zoroastrianism.
Founded by the prophet Zoroaster (or Zarathustra) over three millennia ago, this faith dominated the Persian Empire for centuries. It is a dualistic faith, centered on the cosmic battle between Ahura Mazda (the Wise Lord, representing light, truth, and order) and Angra Mainyu (the Destructive Spirit, representing darkness and chaos).
Central to Zoroastrian belief is the purity of the elements: earth, water, and, most famously, fire. Fire is the supreme symbol of purity, the physical representation of divine light. But just as fire is sacred, the dead body (nasu) is considered deeply polluting. When a person dies, the demon of decay rushes into the corpse, making it a vessel of impurity.
Because the earth and fire are holy, a Zoroastrian cannot bury a body (which would pollute the sacred earth) or cremate it (which would pollute the sacred fire). This theological dilemma led to a unique funerary solution: Excarnation.
Traditionally, Zoroastrians would place their dead in "Towers of Silence" (dakhmas), open-air circular structures where the bodies were exposed to the sun and scavenging birds like vultures. The birds would strip the flesh, leaving only the clean, sun-bleached bones. These purified bones were then collected and placed in rock-cut niches or ossuaries—chambers carved into the living rock, sealed away to await the final resurrection.
This is exactly what the archaeologists found at Teniky. The niches in the cliffs were not cupboards; they were bone chambers. The stone basins found nearby were likely used for ritual ablutions, holding the water or fire required for the funerary ceremonies.
The implications are staggering. Teniky is likely a Zoroastrian Necropolis—the first and only one of its kind ever discovered in sub-Saharan Africa.
Part V: The Flight of the Exiles
Why would a community of Zoroastrians travel over 6,000 kilometers across the open ocean to build a necropolis in the Malagasy hinterland?
The timeline offers a tragic clue. The radiocarbon dates (10th-12th centuries) correspond to a period of immense upheaval in Persia. Following the Arab conquest of Iran in the 7th century, the Zoroastrian population faced increasing pressure to convert to Islam. While many did, others held fast to their ancient rites.
Over the centuries, waves of Zoroastrians fled persecution. The most famous of these exiles are the Parsis, who fled to Gujarat, India, where their community thrives to this day. But the discovery at Teniky suggests the Parsi migration was not the only one.
Imagine a fleet of dhows departing the port of Siraf on the Persian Gulf. Siraf was a bustling metropolis of the medieval world, a city of wealthy merchants who traded pearls, silk, and spices. It was a cosmopolitan hub where Zoroastrians, Jews, Christians, and Muslims lived side by side—until the balance tipped.
Perhaps a community of Sirafi Zoroastrians, sensing the tightening grip of religious intolerance or fleeing a specific conflict, took to their ships. They were master navigators, familiar with the trade winds that blew towards the "Zanj" (East Africa) and the mystical island of Waq-Waq (often identified with Madagascar).
They did not stop at the coast. The coast was dangerous, exposed to pirate raids and the growing influence of Islamic sultanates on the Swahili seaboard. Seeking isolation and purity, they marched inland. They crossed the dry plains, navigated the great rivers, and finally found Isalo.
Here, the sandstone landscape might have reminded them of the Zagros Mountains of home. It was dry, clean, and defensively secure. Here, in the silence of the canyons, they could light their sacred fires and expose their dead to the sky, undisturbed by the changing world they had left behind.
Part VI: Life in the Hidden City
Life at Teniky would have been a blend of Persian sophistication and pioneer survivalism. The archaeological survey of 2024 revealed that this was not just a cemetery; it was a settlement.
The Terraces:The builders constructed extensive stone terraces along the slopes. These were likely used for agriculture, perhaps to grow rice or taro, irrigated by the waters of the Sahanafo River. The precision of the dry-stone walling (stones stacked without mortar) is far superior to anything else found in Madagascar from that era, showcasing the engineering heritage they brought from Persia.
The Trade:They were isolated, but not cut off. The presence of Chinese ceramics tells us that caravans must have made the trek from the coast to Teniky. Perhaps they traded the riches of the interior—gemstones, hardwoods, or even the giant flightless birds that still roamed Madagascar at the time—in exchange for the fine pottery that reminded them of civilization.
The Sacred Landscape:One can imagine the priests, dressed in white, tending the ritual fires in the rock shelters. The "Grande Grotte" might have served as a fire temple, its stone walls shielding the sacred flame from the wind. When a member of the community died, the procession would wind its way up the cliffs. The body would be laid out on the stone benches of the "Petit Grotte" or similar exposed platforms. Once nature had done its work, the bones would be gathered, prayed over, and sealed into the rectangular niches that pockmark the cliffs today.
Part VII: The Mystery of the Vanished
And then, silence returned.
The archaeological record suggests that Teniky was occupied for perhaps a few centuries, and then abandoned. By the time the Portuguese sailed the Indian Ocean, the fires of Teniky had long gone cold.
What happened to them?
There are no mass graves suggesting a massacre. No signs of a sudden cataclysm. It is possible they were assimilated into the local population. Genetic studies of the Malagasy people show a complex tapestry of African and Austronesian DNA, but there are trace signals of other ancestries that are not fully explained. Did the Zoroastrians intermarry with the ancestors of the Bara?
Or perhaps they fell victim to disease. The isolation that protected them could also have been their undoing if a pathogen was introduced.
There is also a darker possibility, hinted at by the empty niches. When the researchers examined the bone chambers, they found them empty. Not a single fragment of ancient bone remained.
Dr. Schreurs and his team propose a chilling theory: The removal for Black Magic.
In Madagascar, there is a deep and complex relationship with the ancestors. But there are also mpamosavy—witches or sorcerers—who are believed to use human bones for dark rituals. It is possible that over the centuries, after the original builders had vanished, local populations found these caches of "ancient bones" and looted them, not for gold, but for their spiritual potency.
To the later inhabitants, these strange ruins were the work of the Vazimba (the mythical first inhabitants of Madagascar) or other spirits. The Kalanoro—the legendary small, wild men of the forest—are said to inhabit the crags of Isalo. Perhaps the memory of the strange, pale-skinned foreigners who lived in the cliffs morphed into the legends of spirits that haunt the canyon today.
Part VIII: A Traveler’s Guide to the Mystery
Today, Teniky is no longer a rumor. It is a destination for the intrepid. Visiting the site is not a casual Sunday drive; it is an expedition.
Getting There:Isalo National Park is accessible via the RN7 highway, the main artery of tourism in Madagascar. Most visitors stay in the town of Ranohira, the gateway to the park. From here, one can organize treks into the park’s famous "natural swimming pools" and the "Canyon des Makis."
However, reaching Teniky requires more commitment. It involves a strenuous trek of roughly 20 kilometers across rugged, shadeless terrain. It is a journey that requires a guide, porters, and camping gear. You walk through a landscape that feels prehistoric. You might spot the Elephant’s Foot plant (Pachypodium rosulatum), a bloated, spiny succulent that looks like a baobab attempting yoga. You will see the Tapia forests, gnarled trees with fire-resistant bark that host the silkworms used for Malagasy burial shrouds.
The Experience:Arriving at Teniky is a revelation. The first thing you notice is the silence. The wind funnels through the "Grande Grotte," whistling over the stone blocks laid by hands that knew the architecture of Shiraz and Persepolis.
Standing before the cliff niches, you can touch the chisel marks left 1,000 years ago. You can sit on the stone benches where the dead were laid out. It is a haunting, visceral connection to a lost chapter of human history.
Preservation:The site is fragile. For centuries it was protected by its isolation, but as its fame grows, so does the risk. The soft sandstone erodes easily—a process the French call maladie de la pierre (stone sickness). Visitors are urged to tread lightly. This is not just a tourist spot; it is a cemetery, a holy place for a people who have no one left to remember them.
Conclusion: The Ocean that Connects Us
The discovery of a Zoroastrian necropolis in Madagascar is more than just an archaeological curiosity. It rewrites the map of the medieval world. It reminds us that the Indian Ocean was not a barrier, but a bridge—a superhighway that connected the snow-capped mountains of Persia to the tropical canyons of Madagascar.
It tells a story of human resilience. It speaks of a group of people who, when their world fell apart, packed their ships, sailed into the unknown, and built a sanctuary of stone in the most unlikely of places.
Teniky stands as a monument to the refugee. It is a testament to the lengths humans will go to preserve their faith and their identity. The fires of Teniky may have gone out a thousand years ago, but the mystery of the "Zoroastrians of the Red Island" burns brighter than ever.
As you leave Isalo, watching the sunset turn the sandstone cliffs into a wall of fire, you can almost hear the echo of their prayers—a whisper of Good Thoughts, Good Words, Good Deeds carried on the Malagasy wind.
Reference:
- https://beyonder.travel/africa/isalo-national-park/
- https://ndaoitravel.com/madagascar/en/key_attraction/isalo-national-park-eng/
- https://www.vivytravel.com/the-queen-of-isalo-and-the-window-of-isalo/
- https://www.africaodyssey.com/madagascar/isalo-national-park
- https://www.101lasttribes.com/tribes/bara.html
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teniky
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- https://medium.com/teatime-history/did-ancient-zoroastrians-build-rock-cut-structures-in-madagascar-d0a7f3f6f3b4
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- https://www.aqua-firma.com/travel-guides/madagascar-national-park-reserves-travel-guide/isalo-national-park