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The Ghostly Grandeur of the Paigah Tombs and Their Revival

Sat, 27 Sep 2025 05:24:30 GMT
The Ghostly Grandeur of the Paigah Tombs and Their Revival

In the labyrinthine lanes of Santosh Nagar, a suburb in the old city of Hyderabad, lies a necropolis of haunting beauty and forgotten grandeur. For decades, the Paigah Tombs, the final resting place of one of Hyderabad's most illustrious noble families, were shrouded in an eerie silence, their exquisite artistry succumbing to the relentless march of time and neglect. These are not just tombs; they are poetic expressions in lime and mortar, a testament to a dynasty that, for over a century, was second only to the Nizams in power and prestige. Now, after years of decay, a remarkable revival is underway, breathing new life into these ghostly yet magnificent structures and reawakening the stories of the Paigah nobility.

The Rise of the Paigah: The "Sun Among Nobles"

To understand the significance of the Paigah Tombs, one must first delve into the annals of the Paigah family, a lineage deeply intertwined with the Asaf Jahi dynasty of Hyderabad. The family's founder was Nawab Abul Fateh Khan, who was given the title Tegh Jung Bahadur by the second Nizam, Salabat Jung, in the mid-18th century. The Persian word "Paigah" translates to "footstool" or "right-hand man," a title that aptly described their role as the Nizam's most trusted generals, administrators, and confidants. Their loyalty was rewarded with immense wealth, vast estates spanning thousands of square miles, and the unique privilege of maintaining their own court and a private army of thousands of soldiers.

The bond between the Paigahs and the Nizams was further cemented through a tradition of matrimonial alliances. In 1797, Fakhruddin Khan, the son of Abul Fateh Khan, married Sahebzadi Bashirunissa Begum, the daughter of the second Nizam, Ali Khan. This union initiated a legacy where Paigah men would marry daughters from the Nizam's family, elevating their status to the highest echelons of Hyderabad's aristocracy. They were not merely nobles; they were family.

The Paigahs were also renowned patrons of art and architecture, a passion that is evident in the several palaces they constructed across Hyderabad, including the famous Falaknuma Palace, which was later presented to the sixth Nizam. Their aesthetic sensibilities and penchant for grandeur were not reserved for the living; they extended this passion to their final resting places, creating a necropolis that stands as a unique architectural marvel.

A Symphony in Stone and Stucco: The Architectural Grandeur of the Paigah Tombs

The Paigah Tombs, constructed over a period of more than a century starting from 1787, are a breathtaking embodiment of Indo-Saracenic architecture, a fusion of diverse styles that tells a story of cultural confluence. Here, the robust forms of Mughal architecture blend seamlessly with the delicate intricacy of Rajasthani design, while influences from Persian, Greek, and Deccani art add further layers of complexity and beauty. This eclectic mix is a reflection of the Paigah's own cosmopolitan outlook and their travels across the world, from which they brought back architectural inspirations.

What sets the Paigah Tombs apart is their extraordinary craftsmanship, particularly the intricate stucco work and the mesmerizing 'jaalis' or latticed screens. The stucco, a fine plaster made of lime, sand, and water, is not merely a decorative coating but a medium for sculptural and artistic expression. The walls and ceilings are adorned with elaborate floral and geometric patterns, with a finesse that has been compared to the artistry of Granada and Seville in Spain.

The 'jaalis' are another highlight, with over 35 different designs found in the necropolis. These are not just carved from stone; many are ingeniously crafted from terracotta tiles, some as thin as one or two millimeters, assembled like a jigsaw puzzle and then coated in fine lime mortar. The result is a series of perforated screens of stunning geometric complexity, which create a captivating play of light and shadow within the tomb enclosures.

Each tomb within the complex is unique, a bespoke tribute to the noble it houses. The tombs of Sir Asman Jah and Begum Khurshid Jah, for instance, are particularly renowned for their superlative lattice work and perfectly crafted symmetric geometric patterns. The tomb of Lateefunnisa Begum, the grandmother of Sir Khurshid Jah, is another masterpiece, boasting some of the most beautifully decorated stucco work in the entire complex. An inscription on this tomb even notes that it was "Prepared by Khursheed Jah Bahadur," a personal touch that adds to its historical significance.

Many of the graves are open to the sky, a practice that emulates the tomb of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb and reflects a simple tenet of Islam. This design choice, with the sky as the ultimate dome, imbues the tombs with a sense of serene spirituality, a direct communion with the heavens. The enclosures themselves are designed as 'chaukhandis', with arcaded walkways that provide access to the graves.

The motifs and symbols used throughout the tombs are also rich in meaning. The pineapple motif, for example, introduced to the Deccan by the Portuguese, became a symbol of royalty and hospitality. Geometric patterns, a hallmark of Islamic art, are used to represent the infinite nature of the universe, while floral motifs often symbolize paradise. Even an ostrich egg, a symbol of the exotic, was once hung above the grave of Fakhruddin Khan, the first Paigah to marry into the Nizam's family, though only a single, last surviving example remains.

The Ghostly Grandeur: A Period of Neglect and Decay

For many years, the Paigah Tombs lay in a state of heartbreaking neglect. Encroached upon by the dense urban sprawl of Santosh Nagar, the once-grand necropolis became a forgotten relic, its beauty slowly fading under a veil of apathy and decay. The approach to the site was congested and difficult to navigate, and even many locals were unaware of the architectural gem hidden in their midst.

The signs of neglect were everywhere. The intricate stucco work was peeling off, revealing the rough stone beneath. Gaping holes scarred the delicate marble 'jaalis', and in some enclosures, half of the latticework was missing entirely, crudely patched with ugly grey cement. The exquisitely carved wooden doors were broken and unattended, and the exteriors of the domes were blackened with age. Overgrown vegetation ran rampant, its roots further damaging the fragile structures.

A caretaker at the site lamented the lack of maintenance, while previous restoration efforts, often sporadic and underfunded, had come to a grinding halt. A mixer for preparing traditional building materials like lime, mortar, and egg whites lay abandoned, a silent testament to stalled conservation work. Vandals had also left their mark, chipping away at the lime mortar to expose the granite underneath. The tombs, once a symbol of the Paigah's grandeur, had become a poignant emblem of forgotten heritage.

The Revival: Breathing Life into a Forgotten Masterpiece

In recent years, a new chapter has begun for the Paigah Tombs, one of revival and restoration. Recognizing the immense cultural and historical value of the site, the Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC) has undertaken a painstaking conservation project, supported by the Telangana State Department of Heritage and with financial assistance from the US Ambassadors Fund for Cultural Preservation.

The restoration is a monumental task, described by AKTC CEO Ratish Nanda as being "like restoring a painting" due to the incredible intricacy of the ornamentation. The work is slow and meticulous, requiring highly skilled artisans who are masters of traditional building techniques. A team of around 30 craftsmen, many from families with long traditions in heritage construction, have been brought in for the project.

One of the biggest challenges has been the revival of the unique craft used to create the terracotta 'jaalis'. After four to five years of practice, the conservation team has managed to replicate the original technique, which involves slicing thin terracotta tiles, fitting them into a design template, and then binding them with a finely ground lime mortar. The process is so delicate that the craftsmen can only build a one-foot-high section of lattice at a time, which must then be left to dry for a week before the next section can be added.

The leaking roofs, which posed a major threat to the structures, were another priority. The conservation team has cleaned and restored the roofs using cured limestone mortar and has put in place proper drainage facilities to prevent future water damage. Faulty repairs made in the past with modern cement are being carefully replaced with traditional lime mortar, which is more compatible with the original structure.

The restoration is not just about repairing the damage; it's about preserving the artistic and historical integrity of the tombs. Every detail is being meticulously documented, and the materials used are carefully matched to the original. The project also includes landscaping the surrounding area, with plans for better illumination, pathways, and visitor amenities such as a ticket counter, an exhibition space, and drinking water facilities.

The Future of the Paigah Tombs: A Cultural and Educational Hub

The restoration of the Paigah Tombs is more than just a conservation project; it is an investment in the cultural future of Hyderabad. Once completed, the tombs are expected to become a major tourist attraction, drawing visitors from around the world who are keen to experience their unique architectural splendor.

But the vision for the Paigah Tombs extends beyond tourism. The site has the potential to become a vibrant center for cultural education, where visitors can learn about the history of the Paigah family, the intricacies of Indo-Saracenic architecture, and the importance of heritage conservation. The proposed exhibition space will provide an opportunity to tell the stories of the Paigah nobles and to showcase the traditional crafts that were used to build and restore the tombs.

The revival of the Paigah Tombs is a poignant reminder of the transience of power and the enduring legacy of art and culture. For decades, these magnificent structures stood as silent witnesses to their own decay, their ghostly grandeur a melancholic echo of a bygone era. Now, thanks to the dedicated efforts of conservationists and artisans, the symphony in stone and stucco is being reawakened, its intricate melodies once again ready to captivate and inspire. The Paigah Tombs are not just being restored; they are being reborn, ready to reclaim their rightful place as one of Hyderabad's most precious cultural treasures.

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